Introducing New Cats to a Home with a Resident Cat(s)

Step One: Giving time to settle and adjust

1. Follow the procedure outlined in Settling a Cat in to their New Home (https://www.petcourses.co.uk/free-resources/settling-a-cat-into-their-new-home), except when they are ready to explore outside the refuge room, restrict them to a limited area just outside their refuge room, ensuring they cannot escape and that the resident cats are in a separate secure location.

Step Two: Introducing Scents

1. Introduce scent before face-to-face meetings as described in the Protocol for Harvesting and Transferring the Cat’s Odours to a New Environment or Object (https://www.petcourses.co.uk/free-resources/the-importance-of-a-cats-scent-profile).

2. This may naturally occur from the caregiver’s clothing but also, on separate occasions, let the resident cats explore the area outside the refuge room, where the newcomer has been.
3. This process can also be helped along using scent swapping.
4. Harvest facial odours.
5. Leave the cloths in areas where each cat can investigate the scent of another in their own time. Do not force them to investigate the cloths and make sure they are not placed too close to their key resources.
6. Whilst the cloths are in their vicinity make sure each cat is relaxed and doing something they enjoy (e.g. being given treats or being stoked if they enjoy this kind of interaction). This pairing will help to create positive associations with the new scent.
7. Repeat this process daily for two or three days or until the cats appear generally relaxed and settled.

During scent transference, each cat should either ignore the odour or react positively (sniffing it with a relaxed posture). If there are any signs of distress or alarm it may be that the scent was introduced too quickly or at too close a range. In those circumstances do not proceed to step three. Go back a few steps and leave the cloths some distance away so that the cat has time to process and accept the new odours. If there are repeated negative responses contact a suitably qualified and registered behaviour counsellor for help.

Step Three: Eye-to-Eye Contact

1. Choose a time when the cats appear relaxed and if possible recruit another person to help.
2. Ideally choose rooms that have a space between them – a corridor or a hallway for example. This way they won’t be able to rush towards one another and get too close too soon.
3. If the rooms have glass doors that’s ideal. Place each cat in the rooms on either side so they can see one another.
4. If these setups are not available and doors are solid, another great option includes purchasing a sturdy cat safety mesh screen which can be fitted in open door-ways. These allow some visual contact whilst keeping them separated but do make sure they are fitted securely in place so a cat can’t squeeze through any gaps.
5. To create a positive association with the sight/presence of one another, encourage them to do something they find rewarding. For example, provided they are calm and ignoring each other, play with them using their favourite toy. Food can also help so feed very tasty food rewards making sure you have the most yummy available to use as an extra treat if they look at the other without reacting negatively.
6. It’s important that you play/feed them at a good distance away from the doorway. this means that the process is gradual which is always the best policy. Gradually you can move closer to the screen.
7. Once they are comfortable seeing one another, let the cats explore their own space (still with the screen in place). Let them move closer and observe their interactions.
8. To prevent them dashing up to the screen, which could cause alarm, you can stagger 2 or 3 cardboard boxes at either side spaced a little apart. This creates a barrier of sorts which can slow them down.
9. Aggression (hissing, spiting) is often indicative of stress so never use punishment. Instead use distraction with toys or food and end the session.
10. To avoid redirected aggression don’t pick the cats up when they are behaviourally aroused as they can inadvertently scratch or bite you!
11. For mild aggression end the session and on another occasion (e.g. the day after or when you have time) just take a few steps back in the introduction procedure and repeat the protocol, progressing much more slowly.

Step Four: Face to Face Meetings

1. After a number of repetitions of step 3 (depending on the progress this might be a few days/sometimes a few weeks), and provided things are going well, limited face-to-face introductions can be made.
2. After a session of eye-to-eye contact, behind the screen/mesh doors – open the door slightly ajar so they can enter the room themselves. Do not force them together.
3. Provide plenty of hiding places and elevated locations for cats to retreat to if they feel uncomfortable. Cat trees and clutter free shelves and book cases make good spaces.
4. Never force or rush the process. Gradually increase the time that the cats spend together.
5. To reduce any social stress, ensure that they have sufficient space and an abundant supply of key resources.
6. With time, cats can become great friends but some just tolerate and accept one another. Either outcome is favourable.
7. Remember that kittens may be exuberant and can pester an older cat. Supervise sessions and don’t allow this to happen. Have toys at the ready that can be used to distract them.
8. Youngsters can be harness trained and this can be an added control method. However proper training is essential
9. Sometimes things might be going well but you notice tension creeping in. If that occurs, try and analyse what went wrong. Were there any triggers that you can control better? Always take some steps back in the plan for a little while and proceed more slowly.
10. Do be observant and take action – don’t allow things to escalate as this will be harmful to a successful outcome.
11. If things are not progressing seek professional help from a suitably qualified and registered behaviour counsellor

Remember that the key to successful relationships in muti-cat households is providing cats with sufficient resources to go around (e.g. food and water stations, scratch posts, beds, litter-trays, toys, resting places) spaced well apart. They dislike sharing and require a sense of independence and autonomy.

NB This guide can also be used for cats that live together and have had some conflict and require separation to ‘cool off’. However for more serious conflict I would recommend you get some professional support.